
Oaxaca, a state in southern Mexico, is renowned for its rich indigenous culture and, perhaps even more so, its incredibly diverse and flavorful cuisine. And to truly experience the heart and soul of Oaxacan food, you need to head straight to its bustling mercados (markets). Forget sterile supermarkets; these vibrant hubs are where locals shop, socialize, and, most importantly, eat some seriously amazing food.
Come May 2025, the air in Oaxaca’s markets was thick with the enticing aromas of roasting meats, sizzling tlayudas, and the complex spices that define Oaxacan cooking. Each market has its own unique character and specialties, but they all offer a sensory feast that will leave any food lover spellbound.

Here’s a glimpse of what you might find:
- Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre (Oaxaca City): These are two of the most famous markets in Oaxaca City, located right next to each other. Here you can find everything from fresh produce and artisanal crafts to countless food stalls serving up local delicacies. Don’t miss the pasillo de humo (smoke alley) in Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where vendors grill various meats over open flames, creating an incredible smoky aroma.
- Tlayudas: Often called “Oaxacan pizza,” tlayudas are large, thin, crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, meat (like tasajo – dried beef), avocado, and salsa. They’re a must-try!
- Mole: Oaxaca is known as the “land of the seven moles,” each with its own unique blend of chilies, spices, and sometimes even chocolate. Sample different varieties at the market stalls – you won’t be disappointed.
- Chapulines: For the adventurous eater, try chapulines – toasted grasshoppers seasoned with chili and lime. They’re a surprisingly crunchy and savory snack.
- Tejate: A refreshing pre-Hispanic beverage made from corn, cacao, flor de cacao, and ash. It has a unique, slightly earthy flavor and is a great way to cool down.
Exploring Oaxaca’s markets is more than just eating; it’s an immersion into the local culture. You’ll interact with friendly vendors, witness traditional cooking methods, and discover flavors you won’t find anywhere else. So, ditch the guidebooks for a few hours and get lost in the delicious chaos of a Oaxacan mercado – your taste buds will thank you for the adventure!